The Origins of the Paisley Motif
Paisley, as it is known in the UK, is a design which features a distinctive pattern of curved, teardrop and sometimes kidney-shaped motifs.
It is one of the most famous antique textiles with a long, complex and fascinating history, which spans cultures, continents and many centuries. Although its origins are unclear the design has a symbolism and potency which is universal in its appeal.
Paisley was first known as boteh. This was the Persian word for shrub or cluster of floral leaves and was often associated with the cypress tree - which was a symbol of life and eternity. There are many ideas as to where the boteh design originated. Babylon (Iraq and Iran) are distinct possibilities, with the design being known in Kashmir as early as the 11th century. Yazd, a city in Iran, certainly produced a cloth called a termeh, which was made from silk and wool and often included the boteh form. An alternative theory is that the boteh was first created by the Sassanians, in their vast empire, which included large parts of the Middle East, the Caucasus and central Asia. Although the seed-like representation of fertility also has strong connections with Hinduism. Or it may be that the boteh design originated in China - as an adaptation of the yin-yang symbol. So many cultures have embraced the symbolist of the paisley motif.
Kashmir and the Development of Paisley
However by the mid 16th century Kashmir had become the centre for the development of the paisley pattern. During Mughal Emperor Akbar's reign (1556–1605), shawl-weaving production increased dramatically, as influences from nearby China, the Middle East and India were absorbed. Woven shawls were mainly worn by men for ceremonies. These early shawls did not display the paisley shape as we know it today but a curving flower with leaves and a stem, the roots of which have striking similarities to Chinese calligraphy.
The earliest shawls were woven specifically from the hairs of mountain goats, called pashm or pashmina. This goats’ hair was soft and fine and produced excellent cashmere. The creamy ecru colour which is sometimes the background colour for a shawl is the natural colour of the goat's fleece. Shawls were worn as accessories or garments by both men and women, and were often given as gifts or dowries.
Paisley Shawls and the Silk Route
As part of the Silk Route the East India Company imported paisley shawls (adapted from the Persian word shal) from Kashmir and Persia to Europe in large quantities from around 1800. The designs were specifically tailored to cater for the preferences of the area they were to be sold in. For example in Europe the shawls were worn mainly by women not men. The designs might depict exotic scenes of people on elephants riding past palm trees. For the Middle Eastern customers, the curved geometric paisley shape as we know it today was widely used. This was partly due to the Islamic preference not to depict recognizable natural objects.
Symbolism and Cultural Meaning
The way in which symbols from different cultures appear in the development of the paisley pattern show how weavers translated artistic influences from imported
antique ceramics, documents and other
antique textiles into their own designs. Paisley designs were associated with different meanings and messages, depending on the context and culture. For example, in Iran, the pattern was a symbol of fertility and protection, in India it was a sign of auspiciousness and prosperity and in Europe it was a mark of exoticism and elegance.
European Popularity and Industrial Production
Over time tastes developed and changed, with Europeans customers preferring more complicated patterns on their shawls. Therefore in Kashmir, to speed up the manufacturing process, the ‘patchwork shawl' was invented. Woven pieces of fabric from several looms were joined together to make one shawl.
Shawls were enormously popular in France. Many were brought back in the early 1800s from Napoleon I’s campaigns in India and Pakistan. Joséphine, the first wife of Napoleon I, reputedly owned hundreds of cashmere shawls and they were considered the height of fashion and luxury, today these are highly treasured
French antiques sought after by collectors. In 1804 Joseph Marie Jacquard developed the first programmable loom, known as the Jacquard loom, and this, along with other new technologies dramatically increased the production speed of textiles and in turn the output of shawls.
The shawls were soon imitated in Britain, beginning in 1790 in Norwich. However it was in 1805 that production began to expand in the small town of Paisley in Renfrewshire, Scotland, and to a lesser extent in Wales, where shawls were made from wool blended with silk. From that point onwards the English term for the motif was ‘paisley’, though it is also known in the United States among quilt-makers as ‘Persian pickles’ or in the Welsh textile industry as ‘Welsh pears’. Initially the British shawls were only produced in two colours – indigo and madder. By the height of production (1850 – 1860), Paisley had 6,000 weavers. Throughout this period Kashmiri shawls remained popular, despite their higher prices. This was largely because they were made of cashmere, which was softer and provided more warmth than wool did, it was thought of as more luxurious. Also the superior Kashmiri looms produced fully reversible fabric with many more colours. By the mid 1800s there was approximately the same number of shawls being imported from Kashmir as were being produced in Britain.
Paisley material was originally made from fine wool or silk which was sometimes mixed with cotton or linen. The paisley pattern was created by using different colours of threads and intricate techniques of weaving, dyeing, and sometimes featured
antique embroidery. Antique textiles such as these were highly valued and fashionable in many parts of the world, especially among the elites and royalty.
Printing, Design and the Victorian Era
Later on paisley material was also printed or block-printed with wooden stamps. It was produced in various regions of Asia, such as India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Nepal, and China. It is a hugely popular motif in Iran and South and Central Asian countries. Woven using silver and gold threads on to silks and fine wools it was used to create
antique decorative accessories for weddings and other celebrations.
As the Victorian era continued the production of paisley fabric became more widespread. Developments in printing technology enabled factories to mass-produce printed designs and cater for the worldwide demand. Liberty’s forward-thinking founder, Arthur Lasenby Liberty, produced many paisley-orientated collections - selling fabrics, porcelain, rugs and shawls. In 1880s they started printing their own paisley inspired fabrics and there are some wonderful
antique quilts and
antique cushions from this time. William Morris and the Arts-and-Crafts movement adapted the print and it is visible on much of his
antique furniture, particularly his
antique chairs and
antique armchairs. It became an integral part of the Aesthetic Movement and the Art Nouveau Movement – and shorthand for sophisticated, arty bohemianism within the
English antiques movement.
Decline and Revival in the 20th Century
By this time there had been a dramatic decline in demand for woven shawls and by the turn of the century many weavers were forced into emigrating to Australia and Canada to avoid poverty.
It was not until the 1960s that paisley really came back to the fore. The designs were back in boutiques, magazines and fashion and pop music, a rebellion against post-war austerity. The Beatles went through a phase of being heavily influenced by Eastern cultures and paisley fitted with this fascination - its exotic history added a sense of mysticism which appealed at that time. Paisley patterns became a visual statement of the principles of non-conformity and multiculturalism embraced by so many in the 1960s.
Paisley in Interiors Today
To this day paisley patterns, with their intricate dynamic interlocking shapes in exciting colour combinations, appeal to a wide market. Its rich history combines Eastern symbolism and boho chic in a design which can be reinterpreted to reflect changing fashions and trends and to give meaning and pleasure to new generations.
At Mist Antiques you will occasionally find paisley inspired
antique textiles. I am passionate about this fabric and use it whenever possible, especially to create
antique cushions. These are often made from shawls. The paisley is professionally backed and re-enforced to ensure it is strong enough for domestic use. This results in an attractive and unique cushion that blends well with many surroundings. It is a good example of
antiques and interiors combining well to create a unique item for the home. Please contact me if you would like some made, I have several different designs and colours available to be made into
antique cushions.
Reference:-
- Liberty of London Treasures: Colour, Design, Print by Carlton
- Paisley: The Story of a Classic Bohemian Print, by Lindsay Baker for BBC Culture
- Paisley (design) by Wikipedia
- History of Paisley/Origin of Paisley Symbol & Patter by Patrick Moriarty for Paisley Power
